tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88112008293038170472024-02-07T18:36:02.111+11:00Picture Framer's BlogA blog about picture framing equipment, picture framing business issues, picture frame design and anything picture framing.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-83848847426291527412009-09-08T00:09:00.007+10:002009-09-12T23:46:28.214+10:00Part 5 of 5 - Building the sound proof enclosure for my air compressor<span style="font-weight: bold;">DOES IT WORK?</span><br /><br />It has been a fun and worthwhile exercise of making the soundproof enclosure as well as documenting it. When I first started on it, I found lots of information on the net, but all scattered everywhere. I hope that my blog will help others in making a similar enclosure, I know you will be pleased because it has really worked wonders.<br /><br />No longer will I be frightened when the compressor motor kicks in. I did another sound test of the completed enclosure to see how the noise (or absence thereof) is like from outside my garage door. Compared to before, now I can hardly hear it, I have toreally strain to hear it. It is not by any means a silent compressor (like what they use in dental clinics), but it is now definitely a quieter one. In fact, my auto garage door closer is even louder than this so I am a happy camper.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lessons Learned / Recommendations</span><br /><br />1) Start with getting the quietest air compressor you can find. If you can get a silent air compressor, then you won't have to go through the trouble of building an enclosure. The only problem with them is typically they have low CFM ratings, and that means that I can only use only one air tool at a time or cannot use it for high CFM tasks such as spray painting, orbital sanding, etc.<br /><br />2) I have read somewhere that cast iron pumps are quieter than their aluminum cousins. I cant really confirm this, so hopefully this is true and someone will confirm for me.<br /><br />3) Some air compressors have larger motors and pumps and that allows it to rev at a lower rate. The lesser the RPM the quieter it is.<br /><br />4) Get yourself an intake filter silencer, like the Allied Witan Atomuffler I used in this project. I would have been happy with just the silencer. But coupled with the enclosure, it really works wonders.<br /><br />5) With the way I am using the compressor (where the motor kicks in maybe 4 times an hour), you may get by without the AC fan. In my setup, the fan has never really turned on as the thermostat doesn't reach the setpoint (~40degrees Centigrade). But if you are using the compressor heavily, like in spray painting, then the cooling fan is definitely needed.<br /><br />6) All in all, the multi-pronged approach to soundproof the air compressor enclosure has been very successful.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-21088837397387082002009-09-08T00:04:00.014+10:002009-09-11T13:42:11.682+10:00Part 4 of 5 - Building the sound proof enclosure for my air compressor<span style="font-weight: bold;">Google is my friend<br /><br /></span>When I embarked on the task of sound proofing/noise reduction for my air compressor, I didn't really know anything about sound proofing. I thought all you needed to do was to put it inside a box and then that's it. Little did I know that there were quite a lot of details to learn and apply to effectively soundproof my enclosure. And I thank Google for facilitating all my research. As there were several things that you can do to combat noise, I decided to apply a multiple-pronged approach.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">SOUNDPROOFING AN AIR COMPRESSOR</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Use of a sound barrier material</span><br /><br />Firstly I decided to use 18mm MDF as the walls for the compressor enclosure. From my Google research, I found out that MDF had an STC rating of around 29, which is pretty good. In addition to this, I also used <a href="http://www.soundproofingamerica.com/mass-loaded-vinyl.asp">mass-loaded vinyl (MLV)</a> , a heavy vinyl sheet which I attached to the inside wall of the enclosure. It is also known as a Flexible Noise Barrier. Here in Australia, I used an MLV marketed as <a href="http://www.pyrotek.info/listings.php?id=1615">WaveBar from Pyrotek</a>. This thing is heavy at 8kg per square meter, and that's why it works. It is also very easy to apply, I just used screws for fixing to the inside wall. This material has an STC rating of 30. I got the WaveBar roll from <a href="http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/">Clark Rubber</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzb6UJkvGESpvxJ1aDZwUKzfZKfCOF5Tp74hobRXpn6duEnb7ddADULS2zJ_0T3oODCfua5rUrWAgKMkBovp8Vm-7e4OMof7XmWLONyF7KZo0VhjA0YTof6MtN8GIKYV-W-iNrKxhKD6w/s1600-h/100_4940.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzb6UJkvGESpvxJ1aDZwUKzfZKfCOF5Tp74hobRXpn6duEnb7ddADULS2zJ_0T3oODCfua5rUrWAgKMkBovp8Vm-7e4OMof7XmWLONyF7KZo0VhjA0YTof6MtN8GIKYV-W-iNrKxhKD6w/s320/100_4940.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379849703135191394" border="0" /></a>The photo shows the inside of the enclosure lined with 8kg/sq. meter WaveBar.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Use of a sound absorption material</span><br /><br />I got these <a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX3688&keywords=sound+barrier&form=KEYWORD">MLV + Acoustic Foam</a> from <a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/">Jaycar Electronics</a>. They did not say what it is, but they look very much like WaveBar, although it is not that heavy at 4.5kg per square meter. I used some of these as they are laminated to acoustic foam material, which helps in absorbing sound to get rid of reverberations and echo. The foam would also have a dampening effect on the MDF.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Use of vibration dampening material</span><br /><br />I got some vibration dampening rubber pads from <a href="http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/">Clark Rubber</a>. The air compressor do not have direct contact to the concrete floor of my workshop. Surprisingly, you can actually hear the difference straight away after using these.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Input and Output sound deadening baffles or muffler</span><br /><br />If you have read my <a href="http://picture-framers-blog.blogspot.com/2009/09/building-sound-proof-enclosure-for-my_02.html">previous post</a>, this mentioned about using a labyrinth design for the input and output muffler. I had also used some acoustic foam in the inside surfaces of the muffler to control echo.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Use of Intake Filter Silencer</span><br /><br />The intake side of the air compressor is what makes the most noise. To combat this, the Intake Filter Silencer was invented. It works the same as an exhaust muffler, only the air direction is in reverse. Same principle, let air pass through, but block sound. I did some inquiries, and found out that my choices for intake filter silencers are limited here in Sydney. The first is the silencer from a company called <a href="http://www.solbergmfg.com/ViewSeriesDetail.aspx?SeriesId=1">Solberg</a>. They can be available in Sydney, but the bloke I spoke to on the phone wasn't particularly helpful so I tried another company.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbH6gTfDkvOG5vBVC4pQmLQN62k34bguVyTIZwfvovUTaWCp9vdQH8RUvYDGgcT2dpUPB_VcolJfdiyJjEg0_W4xp9NNWG8B5z71U5g2R6nfhFVaP7NiJC_-mFHWNrcbIicnzB3qpEs9I/s1600-h/100_4967.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbH6gTfDkvOG5vBVC4pQmLQN62k34bguVyTIZwfvovUTaWCp9vdQH8RUvYDGgcT2dpUPB_VcolJfdiyJjEg0_W4xp9NNWG8B5z71U5g2R6nfhFVaP7NiJC_-mFHWNrcbIicnzB3qpEs9I/s320/100_4967.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379853441335470306" border="0" /></a><br />Next I inquired about the intake filter silencer from a company called <a href="http://www.alwitco.com/">Allied Witan</a> , called <a href="http://www.alwitco.com/Filtersilencer.html">Atomuffler Filter Silencer</a>. I couldn't find any literature about the amount of sound it attenuates, but it works, and it works really Good. Surprisingly Good.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-35274794454970423872009-09-07T23:53:00.019+10:002009-09-11T13:29:18.500+10:00Part 3 of 5 - Building the sound proof enclosure for my air compressor<span style="font-weight: bold;">Access to the air compressor</span><br /><br />The soundproof enclosure has 2 openings, a small door on one of the short sides allowing me to access the air compressor say when draining water in the air receiver, or when it will need to be transferred to another place, or when it needs some cleaning. The second opening is the large heavy lid on top. Nice and heavy, so that it will not vibrate when the compressor is running. I have also installed the exhaust baffle on this lid, but on the inside. A hole was made on it for the air compressor exhaust. I open the lid when I need to turn ON or OFF the compressor, to access the pressure ball valve, adjusting and cleaning the air intake filter, etc.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">240V Power point</span><br /><br />I have designed the enclosure so that there is only one electrical wire coming out of it. Remember that I have to power a 240V air cooling fan, the air compressor, and a 12VDC power pack for the electronic thermostat (which I use for controlling the fan). All these items get their power from the power point which I positioned inside the enclosure. I just got a 2-socket 10A 240V power point from <a href="http://www.bunnings.com.au/">Bunnings</a> and made my own extension lead. Please remember that any work with live mains will have to be done by an electrician or a suitably qualified tradesman.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Junction box and Cooling fan Thermostat</span><br /><br />Initially my design only had a 240V air cooling fan continuously operating. Although this is fine, it is a waste of energy though. And a little annoying too, as the fan I used, although not noisy, gets in your nerves after a while. Another trip to <a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/">Jaycar</a> solved this as I was able to secure a 12VDC electronic thermostat in kit form to control the fan's set points. It only took few minutes to solder the kit and a bit more to do its enclosure. The idea is - to turn on the fan when it reaches a certain temperature and turn it OFF once it reaches room temperature. Once I get hold of a digital thermometer, I will be able to calibrate it properly. The purpose of the junction box is just to neatly wire all the electrical bits together.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Air Filter/Regulator</span><br /><br />The air compressor originally had an SMC air filter and regulator attached to it. But since this will now be living inside the soundproof enclosure, they will have to be accessible from outside the box. I just moved the filter/regulator outside the box and a quick trip to my local air tool shop to get a quick release fitting so that separating the compressor from the box will be easy. Have a look at the photos to see what I did to allow this.<br /><br />First photo shows the soundproof enclosure showing the top lid open. The cooling fan, powerpoint and air hose positioning displayed. The blue airhose is terminated by a quick release fitting at the compressor side.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-1kScs2Zn5H-JVkrFynZac2-IIU_d21W4JzZ8FU8sKtzwzjHz-VB2kMyGSez5OHzzvkdJmOqDha0ZakgtqawlF47hu6F364e4-D4TPG79UhtHuQr02J5TqiBM0cgJOz8yBmaz1cB1Ag/s1600-h/100_4933.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-1kScs2Zn5H-JVkrFynZac2-IIU_d21W4JzZ8FU8sKtzwzjHz-VB2kMyGSez5OHzzvkdJmOqDha0ZakgtqawlF47hu6F364e4-D4TPG79UhtHuQr02J5TqiBM0cgJOz8yBmaz1cB1Ag/s320/100_4933.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379088200856949954" border="0" /></a> The second photo shows the outside of the soundproof enclosure to show the location of the air filter/regulator. The filter is output to a Y quick release connector. One is going to the blowgun (or any of my other airtools), while the other one will be constantly connected to my underpinner.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK6kaOg-wbaURjhCSGSXxnv5cvtLGtestwE90hBdcR4NAaE4-cqnNAosjwN-71Pnncr3LNjuYapZji0KCCmmNscUdojOxLkkMfnLP1O_2hyQo25Wet0n8mkKUFgNMvQAUSiwlWFG6GzBM/s1600-h/100_4930.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK6kaOg-wbaURjhCSGSXxnv5cvtLGtestwE90hBdcR4NAaE4-cqnNAosjwN-71Pnncr3LNjuYapZji0KCCmmNscUdojOxLkkMfnLP1O_2hyQo25Wet0n8mkKUFgNMvQAUSiwlWFG6GzBM/s320/100_4930.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379088030809171122" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5hYDSRWf5zxAq5VkWFyvNmj0L2cRmh2eB3EWoxe9HMXnWstkPFXqFVc3fR88l-qPQdWfjOS3qwWxB01ciZHTccKDS9zbNWjZxxfL472enOxz_EABEP5oa4tB2x6pSQfdwdPgUaKhe6o/s1600-h/100_4930.jpg"><br /></a>JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-23192568718421736302009-09-02T22:53:00.012+10:002009-09-11T13:28:54.996+10:00Part 2 of 5 - Building the sound proof enclosure for my air compressorThe plan for the enclosure will be a box without the bottom panel. There will be 1 door on one side for easy access to the compressor when draining it and a lid on top. The compressor will be resting on the concrete floor, as I would think that if it was resting on the enclosure might create more noise due to reverberation and vibration. Making the box is one thing, now we have to design into the enclosure a mechanism for cool air to ventilate inside and the warm air to be let out ensuring the compressor does not overheat as it cycles. All the while keeping noise inside. The lid on top of the enclosure is where the output baffle will be situated. The input baffle is located opposite the side of the door.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Making input and output sound baffles</span><br /><br />I have done a bit of research and found several ways to enable ventilation and soundproofing at the same time, and eventually decided that the easiest is to build input and output baffles using the labyrinth method. This is essentially a muffler design which works because sound waves do not like to go around bends, but this is fine for air to travel through. Basically the more bends the better. Shown in the photo is the input baffle/muffler where the inside surface is lined with some noise absorbing foam.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkx82YcgKDZpmvkA-uBqzqE1ppWoyudQQK9PdTNtbzJ_IwR1V1ohL8uRXq4Vo6ubczuDlHUa2xa5MqQ-qp_3qOTjgdekcfw6mZoWyYc0bK7I4Lwih2ROG7WhVOMGgojfNv1kbbKT_mBFA/s1600-h/100_4924.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkx82YcgKDZpmvkA-uBqzqE1ppWoyudQQK9PdTNtbzJ_IwR1V1ohL8uRXq4Vo6ubczuDlHUa2xa5MqQ-qp_3qOTjgdekcfw6mZoWyYc0bK7I4Lwih2ROG7WhVOMGgojfNv1kbbKT_mBFA/s320/100_4924.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376874860722274274" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I could have been more liberal with the foam but I ran out. You can also see the round hole I created for the cooling fan. For the fan I used a <a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=YX2517&keywords=cooling+fan&form=KEYWORD">240V AC cooling fan</a>. The model I got is a 105 cfm capacity which I got from <a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/">Jaycar Electronics</a>. This enables the air inside the enclosure to be replaced 5 times every minute, ensuring more than adequate ventilation. The fan is connected so that it pulls air into the enclosure and forces air out through the output muffler. The output muffler is very similar in design to the input baffle, but this doesn't have a cooling fan installed. Just a hole on each end of the muffler. Next photo shows the output muffler with the rectangular airway.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LezQNqiTwM68EY_X0KUuMV09ST53A_KS69ht15yD3cRah-qjvNsexRIYAIzwseHEs4Scx5gk1EylN1Tm8oRgvENKzW6eM4jpH_i7oKkYi7PsDZREAaUr7KZsw0jvSU02Kg48R7G-0sc/s1600-h/100_4929.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5LezQNqiTwM68EY_X0KUuMV09ST53A_KS69ht15yD3cRah-qjvNsexRIYAIzwseHEs4Scx5gk1EylN1Tm8oRgvENKzW6eM4jpH_i7oKkYi7PsDZREAaUr7KZsw0jvSU02Kg48R7G-0sc/s320/100_4929.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376874492893111906" border="0" /></a><br />The input and output baffles will now be attached to the enclosure from the inside. I used small angle brackets for these. The next photo shows a hole on the outside of the enclosure. This hole is for the input baffle. So the air will be sucked through this hole, through the labyrinth inside the input baffle, through the fan, then into the enclosure. As there is no other way for the air to go, it then goes out through the output baffle, which is located in the lid on the top panel. I have tested this and it works really well, ventilation-wise that is. I can't wait to see if the sound deadening actually works...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvAWXfbwBoa9t3nRUAu_x2qS6wwR4QMOdKbe6R7CeRD02paJGhz1RcYl3n5c_vaEcaX66U-XQG757FSj90UONhS_uD3cPnoLOpgVImygral65BbAkxWIkVnZlbqiwf3DCf4AmK-cKIX8/s1600-h/100_4926.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvAWXfbwBoa9t3nRUAu_x2qS6wwR4QMOdKbe6R7CeRD02paJGhz1RcYl3n5c_vaEcaX66U-XQG757FSj90UONhS_uD3cPnoLOpgVImygral65BbAkxWIkVnZlbqiwf3DCf4AmK-cKIX8/s320/100_4926.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376875151169246338" border="0" /></a>JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-24976456295433585792009-09-01T23:51:00.010+10:002009-09-11T13:28:31.477+10:00Part 1 of 5 - Building the sound proof enclosure for my air compressorAs I mentioned in my previous post, I am building a sound proof enclosure for my new electric <a href="http://www.pilotair.com.au/prod/trademaster.htm">Pilot Trademaster TM12</a> air compressor. I don't have access to a sound meter, but this thing is loud. I would just estimate it to be around 80db. When the motor kicks in, I cannot hold a conversation without raising my voice considerably. A consolation is that when this happens, it only takes about 45 seconds for it to fill the 58 litre air receiver. My goal in this exercise is to reduce the sound output so that first, I do not disturb my neighbors as I make my frames at night, and second, I don't crap my pants when the motor kicks in.<br /><br />First of all, I will give you a bit of a background about where this compressor lives so that you will appreciate my reason of making the effort to build this enclosure. As you know I have converted my garage as my framing workshop. It is a 2 and a half car garage, and my workshop takes up 1 and half area, so that I only have space for 1 car. So yu can imagine that with the compressor being in a confined space as this, and with the metal garage door that echoes like crazy, the noise is amplified such that it makes so much disturbance, not only to me but most importantly to my neighbours. As a test, I tried standing outside my garage door while the compressor motor is running, and even with the garage door shut, it is quite loud and unacceptable if you ask me.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Making the basic enclosure</span><br /><br />The first step in this project is building the base enclosure using 18mm MDF (medium density fibreboard). MDF sheets in Australia come in different thicknesses. The thickest being 36mm, then 25mm, then 18mm, 16mm and so forth. In terms blocking noise, the thicker the better. I'd like to use the 25 or 36mm but these were too heavy. I thought it would be very hard for me to build the enclosure by myself. I decided on using the 18mm sheets, as it is still thick enough for my purpose. I have read somewhere that 16mm MDF sheets have an STC rating of 29. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class">Sound Transmission Class (STC)</a> is the measure of the sound blocking property of a "wall", such that a STC 30 material typically reduces the decibel rating of the noise by 30 db, STC 20 by 20 db and so forth.<br /><br />In building the base enclosure, I went the easy way and went to <a href="http://misterplywood.com.au/">Mr Ply & Wood</a>, a sheet material supplier in Australia. Gave them the measurements of the panels basing from my drawing plans. They then find the optimum sheet size that will fit it with the minimum of wastage, plus a small cutting charge. The result is professionally cut MDF sheets, that will all fit in my car and ready to assemble. In addition to the MDF sheets, I also needed 70mmx35mm structural pine timber which serves as the skeleton for the enclosure.<br /><br />The following photos show the construction of the enclosure using the MDF sheets and pine timber.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsP-a93eXUiucQZkAW434yRkPyOw6X6ouZJmmlsaLC1Hgcb6j5VXpg0Y7TTLJ2kb1TMPaQv-LkIOmg6XB64o7s-U1QL0R2flFUuvNCinap_O77pUVDTZbCOvSsRiboUaq_st5RDPRjfj0/s1600-h/100_4907.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsP-a93eXUiucQZkAW434yRkPyOw6X6ouZJmmlsaLC1Hgcb6j5VXpg0Y7TTLJ2kb1TMPaQv-LkIOmg6XB64o7s-U1QL0R2flFUuvNCinap_O77pUVDTZbCOvSsRiboUaq_st5RDPRjfj0/s320/100_4907.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376508833337702946" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2k42VSO-vfpF8mrHz88Cn9kPxKCmUAczMQW1nIfGLCrElu6HslyhpAAjMdp_JbsLQbbkJ-kGKtcjAN9w1OHZ4tqqbxBS3eUDK6vJ4qi5Svh8t-gZQDgZYnM3Cy5INYPfl0UTYuYzyHOc/s1600-h/100_4911.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2k42VSO-vfpF8mrHz88Cn9kPxKCmUAczMQW1nIfGLCrElu6HslyhpAAjMdp_JbsLQbbkJ-kGKtcjAN9w1OHZ4tqqbxBS3eUDK6vJ4qi5Svh8t-gZQDgZYnM3Cy5INYPfl0UTYuYzyHOc/s320/100_4911.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376509016038042802" border="0" /></a>JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-67838560666110353512009-08-21T17:45:00.006+10:002009-08-21T23:47:28.233+10:00Soundproof enclosure for my air compressorThe arrival of my new pneumatic underpinner meant that I needed to be familiar with using and maintaining an air compressor. I got a 12cfm Pilot Air compressor to power the new underpinner as well as my other air tools. Although this capacity is more than enough for my use currently, I hope to still be using it for years to come even later when I will inevitabley have more air requirements. Having not had used an air compressor before, I was surprised at how noisy it iwas. Although my petrol lawn mower is much much noisier, everytime the compressor motor decides to kick in, no fail, always, always scares the hell out of me. Man that's loud! Add to the fact that I mainly use it during weekday, or weekend nights. Plus my garage door is metal which creates a lot of echo in effect amplifying the noise more. I'm sure the neighbors won't be happy. Stay tuned to see how I go in creating a soundproof enclosure for this beast. I already got the drawing plans, and materials ready. I should be able to finish most of it in 1 day. Maybe...JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-82612026367580387312009-08-20T22:46:00.003+10:002009-08-20T23:14:11.632+10:00My trusty old Cassese CS88 is now for saleIt's been a long while since my last post. Since then, I have now upgraded to a new underpinner to replace my trusty old Cassese CS88. Although I am very happy to receive the delivery of the shiny new pneumatic Cassese CS 199MXL, I am a bit sad to think that I am letting my old v-nailer go. Although it is only a manual equipment, it is very well engineered so that it can handle almost anything I ask it to join. To be sentimental about it, it will always in my fond memories as it helped me graduate from a 'hobby' framer (using hand-tool joiners) to being a full -pledged 'professional' picture framer. It has never failed me, even though I might not have given it the proper maintenance care it deserved. It just keeps on joining... and joining... and joining...<br /><br />If anybody is interested, <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Picture-Framing-Tool-Underpinner-V-nailer-Cassese-CS88_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3ef79e7513QQitemZ270442329363QQptZAUQ5fBnIQ5fWoodworkingQ5fMetalworkingQQsalenotsupported">my CS88 is now up for sale in ebay</a>.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-57112993945889011072009-03-23T17:26:00.005+11:002009-03-23T18:10:52.366+11:00The Care of Fine Art - PreservationA qualified professional framer will play an important role in the preservation of your art through the use of proper protective materials. Care should be taken in selecting a professional framer who is knowledgeable in preservation framing methods that will help protect valuable art.<br /><br />When purchasing framed artwork, it would be wise to have it checked by a professional framer to be certain proper steps were taken to protect it. Improper framing could very well cause unnecessary deterioration resulting in a devaluation of the artwork.<br /><br />Art on paper or canvas is fragile. Paints, stains, and pigments, as well as the paper and canvas,are all vulnerable to environmental conditions within our homes and offices. Too much or too little heat in a room, high humidity, poor air circulation, sunlight, and artificial light can cause irreparable damage to paintings, drawings and prints.<br /><br />Works of art have many natural enemies. Do not be one of them. Protect your art and it will remain a treasure for a long time to come.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-74599779180241368812009-03-23T17:23:00.004+11:002009-03-23T17:26:52.455+11:00The Care of Fine Art - InsectsInsects quietly attack and damage paper and canvas. Silverfish and cockroaches, among others, can feed on your artwork. They attack not only paper and fabric, but also glues and some types of pigment. Insects can quickly cause damage, so they should be dealt with promptly. Cleanliness, control of moisture, and regular inspections are a good preventive measures. If you find pests are present, take the piece to your professional framer for an evaluation of the damage.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-27661520417218846412009-03-23T17:19:00.003+11:002009-03-23T17:22:56.282+11:00The Care of Fine Art - DamageIf your art should become damaged, do not attempt to repair it yourself. It is recommended that you leave this to a professional conservator. To locate a reputable conservator, contact your professional framer or check with your local art museum for assistance.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-24183351737465512412009-03-14T07:30:00.001+11:002009-03-14T07:48:45.818+11:00The Care of Fine Art - Temperature and HumidityThe temperature and relative humidity of the room in which he art is displayed is very important. Ideally the humidity should be 50% and the temperature 21 deg C (70 deg F). If temperature and humidity rise and there is little air circulation, the possibility of mold and mildew growth increases.<br /><br />It is important to maintain a steady temperature throughout the entire year. An air conditioner, dehumidifier or humidifier can be of considerable help. However, if the climate controlling device is turned off at night or on weekdays/holidays, a sufficient change in moisture content of the air can take place causing temporary or permanent damage to your artwork.<br /><br />Just as you see that pets and plants are properly cared for during an extended absence, so should you care for you valued art. Have the house aired periodically by a friend or neighbor.<br /><br />Air should be allowed to circulate behind a picture. Spacers or bumpers placed on the two lower corners of a frame will tilt it out a bit from the wall, allowing air circulation.<br /><br />A small amount of rippling or waving of a print can be expected. However, high humidity causes hygroscopic (moisture absorbing) materials such as paper, canvas and sheepskin, to swell.<br /><br />If the humidity is excessive, it can cause severe buckling as well as mold growth. Hygroscopic materials shrink when exposed to low humidity, and extremely low humidity over a period of time can damage fibers causing <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">embrittlement</span>. For localized buckling consult your framer.<br /><br />Do not store or hang artwork in any location that can experience extreme fluctuations in temperature and humidity. That <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">includes</span> attics, basements, damp outside walls, over fireplaces, near heating or air conditioning ducts, by outside doors, under bright lights, or in direct sunlight.<br /><br />Also, remember that kitchens and bathrooms produce steam and heat, resulting in an unhealthy environment for your valuable works of art.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-45945066185025785152009-03-12T23:13:00.000+11:002009-03-12T23:22:31.257+11:00The Care of Fine Art - CleaningArtwork requires periodic cleaning. An occasional dusting of a painting with a soft sable art brush will remove loose dust. Never use a cloth on a painting as it could pick up and chip the paint.<br /><br />When cleaning glass or acrylic, use a damp, not wet, cloth and dry with a soft cloth. Never spray the glazing with a cleaner. It could run down the glazing and get inside the frame causing watermarks to form on the mat(s) and/or art, as well as encouraging mold and mildew growth.<br /><br />Occasionally dust the back of your pictures and check the condition of the hardware and wire. Be sure that they are securely attached to the frame. Consult your framer if the hardware appears to be pulling out or is loose. If the hook(s) you have screwed or nailed into the wall seem to be loose, perhaps the artwork is too heavy for the hook(s) you have chosen.<br /><br /><ul><li><span style="font-size: 78%;">Copyright, PPFA (Professional Picture Framers Association)</span></li></ul>JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-53897768186609089022009-03-11T23:19:00.000+11:002009-03-11T23:33:14.515+11:00The Care of Fine Art - LightAlthough art cannot be enjoyed without light, it is important to be aware that light can cause permanent damage to prints, drawings, and even paintings. Heat and light accelerate fading and discoloration of paper, but the amount of destruction depends on the intensity and duration of exposure to these elements. Invisible ultraviolet rays from sunlight and fluorescent lighting cause most damage.<br /><br />Avoid hanging art in direct or reflected sunlight. Draw blinds or shades during the brightest part of the day to help prevent damage. Once fading occurs, there is no way to restore the colors. You might also consider rotating artwork. Remember, when handling a picture, use both hands on top and bottom, or both sides. If a picture is heavy, have another person help transport it.<br /><br />If you must illuminate artwork, use a picture light with a low wattage incandescent bulb. Turn the light on only when you are viewing the piece. This will keep the heat and exposure to light at a minimum.<br /><br />If fluorescent light cannot be avoided, as in most offices, the tubes should always be covered with special cylindrical sleeves that filter ultraviolet rays.<br /><br /><ul><li><span style="font-size:78%;">Copyright, PPFA (Professional Picture Framers Association)</span></li></ul>JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-1457984911735267052008-11-29T07:31:00.000+11:002009-01-11T07:55:49.400+11:00Framing a Sports JerseyA very common question I hear people ask is: "How do I frame a sports jersey"?<br /><br />In this post I am going to show you how to frame a jersey (it can be any jersey - rugby league jersey, soccer jersey, American football (NFL) jersey, or even a t-shirt) professionally. There are a few basic principles to follow and once you have mastered these, you can frame any shirt confidently anytime.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Archival Materials</span><br /><br />In my opinion, the first and most important thing in framing jerseys is the choice of materials for framing. The fact that the jersey was sent to me for framing suggests that it has some value to the owner. To retain the value of the jersey it is a requirement to use conservation type materials. The mats must be either alpha-cellulose or cotton based. The foam-core must be faced with either alpha-cellulose or cotton based boards. The glazing used must have a UV protection coating. No staples should be used as these will rust in time.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Professional Mounting</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQcmiAGv43vln3eNv1An52Al0QCUX47bM4oFd1uUCeeI6CB_FRQgCTU6tpYGgTRr3hoTNmBIA0hlpaxkvafcVbhS_eaSg6c1uKDev2AZxvwLYSc2NBPllsWMnZ5XMSqaWiI7KagbVwq1c/s1600-h/100_3811.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQcmiAGv43vln3eNv1An52Al0QCUX47bM4oFd1uUCeeI6CB_FRQgCTU6tpYGgTRr3hoTNmBIA0hlpaxkvafcVbhS_eaSg6c1uKDev2AZxvwLYSc2NBPllsWMnZ5XMSqaWiI7KagbVwq1c/s320/100_3811.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273816703174778194" border="0" /></a>Start by cutting a foam core in the shape of the jersey, or how you would like the jersey to be displayed. This will go inside the jersey to hold it into shape. Once in place, the jersey with insert can then be attached or mounted to the backing matboard of the desired colour. This can be done by manually sewing or in my case I use the attaching tool called <a href="http://www.attach-ez.com/">Attach-Ez</a>. A few (about 5 on top and a couple on each side) is all it takes to ensure a safe mounting. It's really very easy and quick once you get the hang of it. It probably takes me 10 minutes tops to do this.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">It doesn't touch the glass!</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX259NwS3qo8IgkUmnulfZxB5CiMr8Hp6AB2Si2tXfWBZSf1VTv8jCqqO_jEGRJn5E2HBfD-7sYdHKV3hWs3Bkgxhv1CFg9AqlJExQAysUV3oUKhwgbgWjji2LZX8-tAk6P579l2tJhOY/s1600-h/100_3812.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX259NwS3qo8IgkUmnulfZxB5CiMr8Hp6AB2Si2tXfWBZSf1VTv8jCqqO_jEGRJn5E2HBfD-7sYdHKV3hWs3Bkgxhv1CFg9AqlJExQAysUV3oUKhwgbgWjji2LZX8-tAk6P579l2tJhOY/s320/100_3812.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273817802987538210" border="0" /></a>After attaching the jersey to the backing matboard, we need to add spacer on the sides of the jersey to keep the jersey away from the top matboard and glass. It is important to have space between the jersey and the glass to protect the jersey from condensation on the glass.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">A placque helps</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLCvrRNfzIqKTbV16vD8qxVGaM_cpzW-slbxppgnT7BOf4b1o-WchKYXI8BW9GAi6yX_Equ6HTU29DKzedoqu0BmlFdpbowyW1tI-mptMhDYG4t8dPRotadsjGmRC6COVe-0FsGhW64uQ/s1600-h/100_3849.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLCvrRNfzIqKTbV16vD8qxVGaM_cpzW-slbxppgnT7BOf4b1o-WchKYXI8BW9GAi6yX_Equ6HTU29DKzedoqu0BmlFdpbowyW1tI-mptMhDYG4t8dPRotadsjGmRC6COVe-0FsGhW64uQ/s320/100_3849.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273818861119782114" border="0" /></a>Find a reputable engraver who can craft a title bar for the jersey. In my case the material used by my engraver is called gravolite. It looks like brass, (gold colour) but when computer engraved, it shows the black layer underneath. It is good as the contrast of gold on black is quite easy to read.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Finished product</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtstOCtZO7Pzh7psVCVSc9VHA7mDb0A4rmaSVsT-9syyQ0ChjiJbpTPv_eyenJNXPc1qoAHfLuxypqJZg7QZQidzua-IhnQh7o2x6Qcsq_1V40XQRt5swjpDr2ERIipSl4th9jMbcMr-k/s1600-h/100_3850.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 309px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtstOCtZO7Pzh7psVCVSc9VHA7mDb0A4rmaSVsT-9syyQ0ChjiJbpTPv_eyenJNXPc1qoAHfLuxypqJZg7QZQidzua-IhnQh7o2x6Qcsq_1V40XQRt5swjpDr2ERIipSl4th9jMbcMr-k/s320/100_3850.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273818863934482690" border="0" /></a>The right moulding to use will have the right amount of depth to accommodate the frame assembly including the glass. Enough space must be available so that it will not be squashed up after placing framer's points.<br /><br />Here it is the professionally framed rugby league jersey, but really you can use the same procedures highlighted in this article to frame NFL jerseys, hockey jerseys, soccer jerseys, basketball jerseys, etc.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-3767591037689976902008-10-25T08:33:00.000+11:002008-11-28T19:30:09.797+11:00My tools for creating picture framing masterpiecesIn this post I will list down all the major tools and equipment I am currently using to create my picture framing projects.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mat Cutting<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrnM4Bm9dAT19kgmQi7dZiCgUmgVFop-v3YW0Rb0E8WVsoC6gzlvmVl1DsdtEfDHSF-_y-GxpwnEjDH-TJVJwLnb0dA2NftaQ0gaUcoS24l3LVmFmqmgX4ROQus3_TpcKplDR1l-11Ig/s1600-h/Ultimat_images2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 215px; height: 174px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrnM4Bm9dAT19kgmQi7dZiCgUmgVFop-v3YW0Rb0E8WVsoC6gzlvmVl1DsdtEfDHSF-_y-GxpwnEjDH-TJVJwLnb0dA2NftaQ0gaUcoS24l3LVmFmqmgX4ROQus3_TpcKplDR1l-11Ig/s320/Ultimat_images2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260844966129377026" border="0" /></a>I use a 48" <a href="http://www.keencut.com/ultimat_gold.htm"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Keencut</span></span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Ultimat</span></span></span> Gold mat cutter</a>. I have it installed in a custom built mat cutting table such that the cutting surface of the mat cutter is flush with the top of the table. The right hand squaring arm for this mat cutter is removable without using any tools, so I accommodated that too in the table design. I use it to cut a bevelled edge on 4-ply, and 8-ply mats as well as for sizing mats and foam boards. I got this mat cutter due to its 20 year guarantee, so I have peace of mind.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Timber Moulding Cutting</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaCkOIKrRUDoNrEm9jdhnnX4DJH611DehpTdsr40EKxogsasI4AQHN66F1LIse8N1dIs9j-ZW5EzBPxfaaIYh0BRlF2DCIRUN-5jGeoUS4wQdZXNMBekaoz7M9-UZ3ukZc0mg2LQkP4Q/s1600-h/cs55m_01.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 167px; height: 106px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzaCkOIKrRUDoNrEm9jdhnnX4DJH611DehpTdsr40EKxogsasI4AQHN66F1LIse8N1dIs9j-ZW5EzBPxfaaIYh0BRlF2DCIRUN-5jGeoUS4wQdZXNMBekaoz7M9-UZ3ukZc0mg2LQkP4Q/s320/cs55m_01.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260942851947657458" border="0" /></a>For cutting timber moulding to size, I use a manual <a href="http://www.cassese.com/encrdang/saw/saw.htm"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Cassese</span></span></span> CS55 chopper</a>. This equipment has a very similar design to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Morso</span></span> chopper, made famous by <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Morso</span></span></span> of Denmark, are foot powered, they work through the use of a guillotine cutting principle. Unlike a saw, choppers do not produce sawdust, so it is perfect for a garage situation like I have. The finish produced by these choppers are very smooth, and they are ready to join immediately after cutting even without sanding it to size. They are a workhorse, and deadly accurate too. Just make sure the blades are super sharp.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Frame Joining</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVu47r9hsIvkjlVRxX__-VNL_rTnUllz4P2QAsQv7M5W0W9L0YeGT0VskPZKELesP_WHEvtcVYgmW54Z0wERUcMmXZkleQCBsfiQ7623-r4DJX0KWtOGeg68AgO0jBnZoQ4Z1myXQ3P4s/s1600-h/cs88-foot-underpinner.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 87px; height: 173px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVu47r9hsIvkjlVRxX__-VNL_rTnUllz4P2QAsQv7M5W0W9L0YeGT0VskPZKELesP_WHEvtcVYgmW54Z0wERUcMmXZkleQCBsfiQ7623-r4DJX0KWtOGeg68AgO0jBnZoQ4Z1myXQ3P4s/s320/cs88-foot-underpinner.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5261206608401698242" border="0" /></a>I use a <a href="http://www.cassese.com/encrdang/assemblang/assembang.htm"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Cassese</span></span> CS88 Foot-operated <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">underpinner</span></span></a> for joining my frames. Same as my other machines, it is yet again foot powered so I don't need to purchase a compressor anymore, but more importantly, I don't really have space for it in the garage. When joining frames with the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">underpinner</span></span>, I use a wood glue called Corner Weld, of all the glues I have used, I think this is the best, quick setting (only 5 minutes clamped) and doesn't dry rigid, it dries soft and pliable.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Multi-Material Cutting</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6lxMIZkBaFiWUJekK6gZqHuMoELhGohvt3_Gqh1Aiihtu3ffOTRolFg8gkY6tSCqDpGg7XwhNuYljKtgx2vQH0vue1LYjtLXEQ-vXRkjtBPAy0uiQm45hCkymmbhM0Iy4ED06gjVR0Y/s1600-h/multi-material-cutter.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6lxMIZkBaFiWUJekK6gZqHuMoELhGohvt3_Gqh1Aiihtu3ffOTRolFg8gkY6tSCqDpGg7XwhNuYljKtgx2vQH0vue1LYjtLXEQ-vXRkjtBPAy0uiQm45hCkymmbhM0Iy4ED06gjVR0Y/s320/multi-material-cutter.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5261426730562700194" border="0" /></a>For cutting different materials such as mat boards, foam boards, glass, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">gatorboard</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">MDF</span>, plastic boards and others, I use a <a href="http://www.fletcherviscom.com/framing/3000_3100/3000_Main.shtml">Fletcher F-3100 multi-material cutter</a>. Initially I thought that this equipment was not necessary when building a new frame shop, but after using it for a while, I should have bought it since day one. It saves so much time in cutting all these materials since it removes the need to mark the boards prior to cutting, and it also has production stops for repeat work, and it saves table space since it is wall-mounted.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mounting and Laminating</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzyWkBhzUSdrUMajrCavFSvdvPjdlM5BcBZTIzOZ76tql2_iuoLgig-s4oFy_H2fAirDdbp3xOrwB9pcsv7RDD_Gomn7S0nJi9KsQtKIgW6-v9Au2bGEQXUxUANiCNQW1r7YyFcnShdUA/s1600-h/drytac-jetmounter-jm26.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 150px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzyWkBhzUSdrUMajrCavFSvdvPjdlM5BcBZTIzOZ76tql2_iuoLgig-s4oFy_H2fAirDdbp3xOrwB9pcsv7RDD_Gomn7S0nJi9KsQtKIgW6-v9Au2bGEQXUxUANiCNQW1r7YyFcnShdUA/s320/drytac-jetmounter-jm26.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273574351640011618" border="0" /></a>I use a Drytac Jetmounter JM26 Mounter / Laminator for mounting and laminating all prints. It is electric, but it's silent operation make it perfect for my garage setup. You don't even know it is turned on until the buzzer beeps when your hand is situated too close to the rollers.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-81414802553946117132008-10-24T18:50:00.000+11:002008-11-28T16:37:21.574+11:00Framing limited edition prints by Australian artist Reg MombassaI am currently framing several <a href="http://www.regmombassa.com/">Reg Mombassa</a> limited edition prints brought in by a new customer the other day. As they are all limited edition I suggested that conservation framing be used.<br /><br />As the picture framer, you have to inform the customer about the options available, because more often than not, they are not aware that there is such as thing called <a href="http://www.orlandoframes.com.au/conservation-framing.htm">conservation or preservation framing</a>.<br /><br />The limited edition prints are:<br /><br />1) Fluffy the slightly pink kangaroo<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqCQOTt8JnD_8sRqcH16ojx0jqkhzJL-Ike2sBfIan-BRkYcYq4B2ueOxHey2zSvZWdDQ6Tm0o28FZYwTsx32UkLjw9vaPY7rnAtaCi0DYf0Wwkj3LQskvw_hjL9-I28vlYuQXxvPEMo/s1600-h/fluffy-the-slightly-pink-kangaroo.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 278px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqCQOTt8JnD_8sRqcH16ojx0jqkhzJL-Ike2sBfIan-BRkYcYq4B2ueOxHey2zSvZWdDQ6Tm0o28FZYwTsx32UkLjw9vaPY7rnAtaCi0DYf0Wwkj3LQskvw_hjL9-I28vlYuQXxvPEMo/s320/fluffy-the-slightly-pink-kangaroo.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262194318618126066" border="0" /></a><br /><br />2) Poplars and copses<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSU8XCZYbG2WUOX0ntCO24vTyv0pViy6GkATAtViL6g6FWCVFKXLOm1O3NPAZcqsG-zmZqTjpgSlh6Ggy3HVuc6IRo3ST_NSafaxceD_i0o_Td0A9VfJhLk8PggsjSc_BV0KyrcGOOzQ/s1600-h/poplars-and-copses.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 312px; height: 266px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSU8XCZYbG2WUOX0ntCO24vTyv0pViy6GkATAtViL6g6FWCVFKXLOm1O3NPAZcqsG-zmZqTjpgSlh6Ggy3HVuc6IRo3ST_NSafaxceD_i0o_Td0A9VfJhLk8PggsjSc_BV0KyrcGOOzQ/s320/poplars-and-copses.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262194597305246562" border="0" /></a><br /><br />3) Nocturne (etching)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhhYITatJjPpd8Nu9gbd39PF4UoljUq_nxQokEsLOlWU5NsZ5SjsQ7UIwcv0IjfFv8cXFR1u58UQzVAVulQeOBXCCFTLz69dEze2ur1M9zr9S9PkRyEJy6GGkaIa_pVsP1Cud4DrPXOYg/s1600-h/nocturne.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 275px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhhYITatJjPpd8Nu9gbd39PF4UoljUq_nxQokEsLOlWU5NsZ5SjsQ7UIwcv0IjfFv8cXFR1u58UQzVAVulQeOBXCCFTLz69dEze2ur1M9zr9S9PkRyEJy6GGkaIa_pVsP1Cud4DrPXOYg/s320/nocturne.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262195093296696930" border="0" /></a><br /><br />4) Commemorative Tumulus<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCr6PEc92V0fhEgKThGCZcqIMkX4LkDQF6zab_WnE3MGEjUW2Zs8j2k_9PrVQiuFkG78SlWyjUGff6hyphenhyphenCFdndzPtYv_xX1McFEWNfqTXy4pca3kIX2ow-aInUHopwtNxNKgXtPTH7pYM/s1600-h/commemorative-tumulus.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 249px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCr6PEc92V0fhEgKThGCZcqIMkX4LkDQF6zab_WnE3MGEjUW2Zs8j2k_9PrVQiuFkG78SlWyjUGff6hyphenhyphenCFdndzPtYv_xX1McFEWNfqTXy4pca3kIX2ow-aInUHopwtNxNKgXtPTH7pYM/s320/commemorative-tumulus.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262195345974265890" border="0" /></a><br /><br />5) Hills Hoist<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTFABZkiR1Hq5kHho-2sxNDPiXGkfbDy1ByFqq4lTJEcRYPWLE6nfs2kRW8rjmB_BvHjaNjTMnM59GJjphFDunrswDWhaA94pTX_QMdc0efmFXEQNfKUfhu1xi8OmCX2o__OXJFDaBn38/s1600-h/hills-hoist.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTFABZkiR1Hq5kHho-2sxNDPiXGkfbDy1ByFqq4lTJEcRYPWLE6nfs2kRW8rjmB_BvHjaNjTMnM59GJjphFDunrswDWhaA94pTX_QMdc0efmFXEQNfKUfhu1xi8OmCX2o__OXJFDaBn38/s320/hills-hoist.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262195531219756962" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Of course from a layman's point of view, an item framed using conservation techniques and another with non-conservation methods will look exactly the same. Well, initially, that is. But I assure you, the difference will be seen in a few years. The colors on the exposed areas will fade as the accumulated effects of UV light takes their toll. The areas hidden under the mats turn brittle and yellowish.<br /><br />The following is a description on the materials I used for framing the prints:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.crescentcardboard.com/matbest.html"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Crescent Rag Mat</span></a><br />Mats used for the job are all conservation grade. Rag Mats are made from cotton and not from wood pulp, which makes it free from lignin, the one responsible for the yellowing of paper.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.bienfangproducts.com/Products.aspx?ID=2&C=5"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Cotton Rag Foam Board</span></a><br />Foam boards also come in conservation variety. This project all used double matting spaced between foam boards, this gives the frame more depth.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.neschenamericas.com/websites/sealbrands/neschen.nsf/htmlalias/framing"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Filmoplast P90 Conservation Paper Tape</span></a><br />The prints were hinged using this conservation tape. A pressure sensitive, white archival paper tape, long fibered and heavier weight than Filmoplast P. Recommended for repairing joints, hinging, and mending damaged edges of documents and book pages. Free from wood pulp and acid. Buffered with calcium carbonate, pH 8.7.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.tru-vue.com/Tru-Vue/Products/conservation-clear/"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Tru Vue Conservation Clear Glass (with UV filter)</span></a><br />This glass has a UV coating on one side and comes in convenient sizes. The trick in cutting this glass is first determining which side has the UV coating. This is easy to do: grab an x-acto knife and score the glass on the very outside edge. The coating side is the one that scratches easily. This side will face the art. Make sure about this otherwise the coating will be scratched off every time the glass is cleaned.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.lineco.com/item.cfm?itemnum=L387-0156"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Lineco Frame Sealing Tape</span></a><br />This tape was used to line the rabbet to further protect the artwork assembly from contact with the wood of the frame which is very acidic.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-58567550695070969592008-10-11T18:33:00.000+11:002008-11-28T16:32:18.777+11:00Framing a cross-stitch the proper way (Lacing)A new customer came in the other day bringing with her a nice cross stitch for me to frame. There are many picture framers closer to where she lives, but she chose to travel to my shop (which is further away) as she wanted me to frame it for her. After I talked to her, I realized that she recently found my company's website on google and one page discusses picture framing of cross-stitch the "proper" way.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mounting</span><br />There are many different ways of mounting a cross stitch for framing. But what I always use is the process called lacing. It takes more time than pinning, stapling or even using attach-ez, but I think (I know) that it will stand the test of time. When lacing, make sure that the boards used are of the archival/preservation/conservation type. This will ensure that they will not have an adverse reaction to the cross-stitch in the passage of time.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Archival Boards</span><br />As I already mentioned, make sure that your framer uses the right kind of boards. Many mat boards and backing boards are of the decorative variety. These are what many picture framers use by default. Not me, I always use the archival variety (Crescent RagMat in particular), unless the customer decides otherwise.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Use of fillets</span><br />For this order, I will be using fillets to enhance the framing package. In my opinion the use of fillets makes a framing piece look about $100 more expensive than its actual value, that's why I always recommend this to my customers.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">UV Filtering Glass</span><br />If you have gone through the trouble of using archival type mat boards, then it makes sense to use UV filtering glass (I use True Vue Conservation Clear) to ensure that the framing package is protected from UV rays which reacts with the framing package by making colors fade after a few years.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Finished Frame</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjVaVbU8_8PcTWPDoaJb1c1EELpV6LETbsUvM964_Ufixp6LDHCcrpinAcBqCbNe2YxCU65HbeIdWIoCjnFS7mt-XtjMPqvI8UrdAoWwgEIocgZFxSsLEzBmOc7tSwhUrIXecwLY3VnP0/s1600-h/beautiful-cross-stitch-frame.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 307px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjVaVbU8_8PcTWPDoaJb1c1EELpV6LETbsUvM964_Ufixp6LDHCcrpinAcBqCbNe2YxCU65HbeIdWIoCjnFS7mt-XtjMPqvI8UrdAoWwgEIocgZFxSsLEzBmOc7tSwhUrIXecwLY3VnP0/s320/beautiful-cross-stitch-frame.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5273576756151565554" border="0" /></a>Here is the finished frame, take note of the gold fillet used to enhance the presentation, the perfect choice of mat board colours, it simply looks beautiful.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjVaVbU8_8PcTWPDoaJb1c1EELpV6LETbsUvM964_Ufixp6LDHCcrpinAcBqCbNe2YxCU65HbeIdWIoCjnFS7mt-XtjMPqvI8UrdAoWwgEIocgZFxSsLEzBmOc7tSwhUrIXecwLY3VnP0/s1600-h/beautiful-cross-stitch-frame.JPG"><br /></a>JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8811200829303817047.post-21414071335023908882008-10-05T08:09:00.000+11:002008-11-28T15:17:07.579+11:00My first ever blog postI have been thinking on creating a blog about my picture framing adventures since about two years ago. Although I have been framing for around 5 years now, my picture framing journey is still in the beginning stages of what I envisage to be a lifetime passion, and I intend to make this blog an online record of my exploits on everything picture framing from my point of view, a humble picture framer.<br /><br />Picture framing is a passion of mine, I regard it as an outlet of my creativity. It started out as a hobby, about 5 years ago. Initially I got all sorts of DIY picture framing equipment to able to frame my own stuff instead of having it done by professional picture framing shops. It was fine for about a few months, but realised that I couldn't get the quality that I expected (I regard myself a perfectionist), so I researched about professional picture framing equipment from other framers (they are such a helpful lot), as well as from the equipment suppliers, began investing in professional framing equipment, and started a part-time picture framing business on the side to fund my equipment purchases.<br /><br />In my future posts, I will be discussing everything picture framing, from framing equipment, its use and recommendations, proper framing of artworks in accordance with international standards, my current framing projects, tutorials, framing business issues and much much more, so I hope you enjoy it as much as I am.JO Reyeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06454971402277200970noreply@blogger.com0